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Why Sending Your Old Clothes to Africa Doesn't Help

Posted: 06/25/2012 1:14 pm

Last week, I saw a street kid walking down the dusty road in Bukoto Markets. He was selling mangos from a bucket and wearing a Carleton University shirt. He stood there, in the midst of the dilapidated market stalls, surrounded by squawking chicken in cages and boda drivers calling out to walking passerbys, wearing the t-shirt of my alma mater. At that moment, the world seemed quite small. Maybe absurdly so.

It wasn't the first time I'd seen a Carleton shirt in Africa. In 2009, I was in Rwanda on an internship program through the university. We went to visit the Gisozi Genocide Memorial in Kigali, and in one room there were the shirts of the genocide victims on display. Some of them were torn, ripped or stained with blood. Some were unrecognizable. But there was a Tim Hortons shirt. And one was a Carleton University t-shirt. We stood there, students from far away in that grim and unfamiliar place, looking at the familiar red and black t-shirt. Did the student who picked it up at the Carleton University bookstore ever imagine that the shirt would end up as part of a genocide memorial?

These two shirts are a miniscule part of the long established first world impulse to send their cast-off clothes to struggling countries such as Uganda or Kenya. So widespread is this practice that over the past two decades serious controversy has been generated around the impact this "charity" has had on African industries.

While these campaigns tug at your heartstrings ("I can save a life with little effort"), the campaigns are often devastating to local industries. During the 1980s, the Kenyan textile industry boomed; it employed 30 per cent of the labour force. But the introduction of liberalized trade policies led to mass importation of donated clothing and devastated the textile industry. The imported textile industry has exploded to $1 billion since 1990.

Over 12 countries have banned imports of textiles in order to protect their own national industries. It's not hard to see why: In 2011, over 13,000 tonnes of textiles were imported to the Ivory Coast, which is miniscule compared to the nearly 80,000 tonnes to Ghana.

A significant reason why countries like Uganda, Nigeria and Haiti lag behind developed countries is because of a combination of a lack of infrastructure and the difficulty in creating formal employment opportunities. A thriving textile industry that produces cotton in Africa contributes to the economy in many ways: It creates a formal workforce (thereby creating economic stability), it pays taxes which can then be invested in infrastructure and education, and it moves countries away from a state of dependence on aid.

Organizations that want to clothe street children should buy clothes from local industries; if adults are paid decent wages, they can send their kids to school and break the "cycle of poverty." Buying locally produced and marketed goods also won't deflate prices of local goods; competition is hard when homegrown businesses cannot even begin to compete with the artificially cheap, imported clothing.

Aid and development are deeply complex and there are no easy answers. But what can be said with some certainty is that the physical donations of goods, be it food or clothes, often have negative impacts on the local economy. It would be far better for aid organizations to buy products locally. Want to provide underwear for women? Buy it in local stores. Want to buy school supplies for kids in Kenya? Trust me, Kenya is crowded with independent market vendors selling pencils and notebooks.

Aid shouldn't be about making North Americans comfortable with a culture of mass consumption and waste. It has to be actually making the lives of people in the recipient country better. If NGO's provide us with the complex narratives that truly describe the realities on the ground, then we have to be prepared to listen.

The ubiquitous presence of t-shirts from places like Carleton University speak to more than the proliferation of cheap clothing imports into Africa. It also demonstrates how interconnected we all are. There is nothing to be gained by being interconnected if we don't really pay attention to each other, and to what the other is saying; to what the other needs or aspires to. But we're not going to change the world only by contributing what makes us feels good. Nor will the world improve if we only give away what we no longer want or need. We'll only change the world through hard work, practicality and listening.

 
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Last week, I saw a street kid walking down the dusty road in Bukoto Markets. He was selling mangos from a bucket and wearing a Carleton University shirt. He stood there, in the midst of the dilapidat...
Last week, I saw a street kid walking down the dusty road in Bukoto Markets. He was selling mangos from a bucket and wearing a Carleton University shirt. He stood there, in the midst of the dilapidat...
 
 
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09:49 AM on 06/26/2012
This is consistent with some of the points made by Dambisa Moyo in her book "Dead Aid" - broadly, that often the unintended negative consequences of aid (corruption, distortion of local economies, etc...) outweigh its benefits. Instead of aid, capital shoud be raised through improved access to capital markets, which forces governments to be transparent and accountable to lenders; and through taxation, which requires governments to be accountable to their people. While overall she has more faith in the invisible hand of the market than I do (e.g. giving international lenders too much sway over the affairs of a country can have its own undesireable spinoffs) I think there's a lot to that argument.

I'm curious whether the author or anyone else knows of charitites that actually are focussed on investing in local industries?
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Chockolate
Four swirling square pegs in a round hole.
04:55 AM on 06/26/2012
I've been saying for years that all aid to Africa should be tapered off. The only good aid is short term, requested aid, after that it does nothing by destroy.
02:02 AM on 06/26/2012
That photo isn't even from Africa. The quote about the death of the Kenyan textile industry is believable, but calling her 'struggling' is as laughable as posting a picture from India and trying to hoodwink your leaders. Half baked reports are worse than no reports at all.
12:38 AM on 06/26/2012
This article neglects to recognize that the majority of clothes that end up on the streets of Africa were never donated to Africa. They were donated to Canadian and US organizations such as Diabetes Care and Salvation army. These, in turn, don't end up selling in Canada at second hand shops and are sold by bulk to different markets around the world. A major recipient of this trade is Africa. Once they arrive in Africa, small business people will bid on bulk weights of the clothes and either shredded to create filling for some other industry or resold in markets in Africa.
This is a completely legitimate trade and usually not based on anyone feeling charitable. The author should familiarize herself with how business is actually done in most of Africa rather than simply picking up stories from the genocide to get Canadian's attention. The genocide was a long time ago in Rwanda and nothing to do with this story.
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see-ellen2001
07:34 AM on 06/26/2012
Skerries: exactly right. I read and heard about this a while back. Why wouldnt someone writing a article of this sort investigate the source of these clothes. People with very good intentions to donate clothing to Canadian operations are not complicate in bringing down foreign textile industries
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JackBlair69
True and Fabulous
08:59 PM on 06/25/2012
It is a rare occasion which I find myself agreeing with a white Liberal (albeit only superficially).

Have you seen the way those people dress over there? People, please! For the love of God, stop donating all your old 80's gear.

On second thought, though, it is amusing (in a macabre sort of way) when I see Palestinian youth on the news throwing rocks at tanks and cops - while wearing Snoop Dog tee shirts and displaying the Nike swoosh.
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CreepyThinMan
More dapper than Don Draper.
12:25 PM on 06/26/2012
"Have you seen the way those people dress over there? People, please! For the love of God, stop donating all your old 80's gear."

I disagree as an African wearing a "Where's the Beef?" t-shirt would be most amusing on multiple levels.
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JackBlair69
True and Fabulous
11:40 PM on 06/26/2012
Thus my caveat. The juxtapositional possibilities are precious.
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CreepyThinMan
More dapper than Don Draper.
06:34 PM on 06/25/2012
Sending ANYTHING to Africa does not help. There have always been starving African children and there will always continue to be starving African children as long as we ignore the underlying problems which are a lack of fresh water, lack of energy production not to mention the absolutely corrupt politicians, the warlords, drug and weapons dealers.

Our best hope is for us to do massive investment into R&D for alternative energy production that will help bring costs down for de-salting seawater. My thinking on this is that Africa is soo dry that if we could make it very inexpensive to do this then it would help develop agriculture on a national level that could be used to feed everyone while also providing energy needed to bring that continent into the 21st century.
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Chockolate
Four swirling square pegs in a round hole.
04:58 AM on 06/26/2012
They can find their own solutions given half the chance. We need to stop interfering and let the place heal and grow.
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lilkitten22
Be the change that you wish to see in the world
06:31 PM on 06/25/2012
This article sounds a bit on the criticizing side, some people send old clothes because they have no money to send to others, some people don't trust some charities because of past experiences and reading up on them. All in all, good people try to help when they can, and not everyone has money coming out of their ears.
01:37 AM on 06/26/2012
no you don't seem to understand. this is not an option instead of giving money. IT DEVASTATES A LOCAL ECONOMY. it might even cost lives.