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New York Fashion Week: Why Is the Fashion Industry Still Pushing Size 0?

Posted: 09/15/11 03:45 PM ET

It's the most wonderful time of the year... or really the season. Fashion week has swooped in upon New York City, and has turned the city topsy turvy with the arrivals of new clothes, new looks, and of course, new rules.

Earlier this year, the Council of Fashion Designers revisited their health guidelines, and decided to raise awareness about eating disorders, in addition to stopping girls younger than 16 from walking on the runway. As progressive as this is, a ban on young runway models or raising awareness about eating disorders will not solve the problem. The problem doesn't stem from "weak" young women, or pre-teen models. The evil lies in modeling agencies, determined to sell a product, not a person.

When I was 13-years-old, I decided I wanted to be a model. I was tall and lanky: 5'8" and 115 pounds on a good day. I had often been asked if I was a model, or told I should model. And, after becoming addicted to America's Next Top Model, I decided I wanted to give it a go. I persuaded my mother I was serious, and she reluctantly agreed to accompany me on a round of the agencies in Manhattan. I had a portfolio, a list of all the major agencies in New York, and unabashed confidence. I was ready.

The very first agency I went to was Wilhelmina Models. I was told to leave my photos with the receptionist and then wait in a sitting area with six or seven other girls, also all with their mothers. We waited. We waited. We waited. After what seemed like forever, two women came out of the office.

"Thank you for coming to Wilhelmina. If we call your name, please come and collect your photos. We are not interested." Every girl anxiously stared forward, hoping that they would not hear their names called. The agents began calling names, and soon almost all the girls had left the agency. My mom gripped my hand; it looked like I might get an interview and an offer! My heart was pounding.

Finally my name was called. I walked up to the agents and smiled, holding my hand out to grab my portfolio. I didn't expect to hear what they would say next.

"You're quite pretty," Agent #1 said. I thanked her.

"Have you ever considered plus size modeling?" asked Agent #2. I was humiliated.

Thankfully the only people to witness this defeat were me, the agents, and my mom. I shook my head no, and took my photos. When we got outside, my Mom was in a rage. "That's how eating disorders are CAUSED," she fumed, as I pleaded with her not to go back into the agency to tell the agents what she thought about their weight.

A few years later, after spending my time doing odd modeling jobs here and there, I decided to try my luck with an agency again. This time I was 15, and I had won a national modeling competition for Seventeen Magazine. The prize was a photo spread of me modeling back-to-school fashions in the fall issue. My confidence had been restored. I went alone to Elite Models, despite my mother's protests that someone come with me for "moral support."

I arrived at Elite's offices, handed in my photos, and waited. Soon enough an agent appeared, with my photos and a "sorry to break the bad news" kind of speech. At least this time around, I had been expecting that. This agent told me that I needed to lose some weight off my face. I inquired how I could best do that. He told me "dieting and the gym." I thanked him for his time and left, once again disappointed.

Agencies are the culprits of furthering the evils of body image. A picture of an outrageously thin girl in a magazine is certainly in part to blame, but, nothing is as horribly influential as an agent telling a tall, skinny girl that she needs to lose weight. Will the skinny girl in the magazine make me feel fat, or will the booker of skinny girls telling me I'm fat make me feel fat?

Why not book the girl who is two inches too short? After all, Kate Moss is a mere 5'7. Why not book a model who is a size 4 or 6 instead of a 0?

If the fashion industry really is moved by innovation and change, why can't agencies be trend setters instead of trend followers?

 

Follow Miranda Frum on Twitter: www.twitter.com/@mirandafrum

It's the most wonderful time of the year... or really the season. Fashion week has swooped in upon New York City, and has turned the city topsy turvy with the arrivals of new clothes, new looks, and o...
It's the most wonderful time of the year... or really the season. Fashion week has swooped in upon New York City, and has turned the city topsy turvy with the arrivals of new clothes, new looks, and o...
 
 
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04:31 PM on 09/19/2011
Good article! This stupidity has been going on a long time. When I was 19, back in 1968, I got sent to a modelling agency in SF by a photographer. I was 5'7" and weighed 112 lbs.; everybody always told me how skinny I was. The agency told me I needed to lose TWENTY POUNDS because "the camera adds ten pounds." That was in 1968, folks. We weren't brainwashed about weight then; I told them no thanks and went out for a cheeseburger.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Comeplayinmyreality
enter at your own risk
05:13 PM on 09/16/2011
something similar happened to my younger sister and she had always dreamed of modeling, she was 15 at the time and was 5'9 (so jealous I am only 5'2) and 110lbs and very beuatiful. She did the whole modeling agency gauntlet and was told by 2 of them that she should drop at least 10lbs and then come back. My sister, being who she was, told those men that they can take their 10lbs and shove it up their asses.
09:25 AM on 09/16/2011
Asking a girl who is 115 pounds to consider plus-size modeling is outrageous!
tippisheadrun
Get 2 birds stoned at once
05:10 PM on 09/16/2011
But somehow not as outrageous as a mother accompanying her 13 year old daughter (if I'm doing the math right) to a modelling agency looking for work. If this mother had dragged her daughter to a fast food place looking for work, she would be considered a slaver but in this case she's just being supportive??
04:36 PM on 09/19/2011
"I persuaded my mother I was serious, and she reluctantly agreed to accompany me on a round of the agencies in Manhattan."
02:02 AM on 09/16/2011
I did a go-see at Wilhemina when I was in college and they told me the same thing about possible plus-size modeling. I wore a size 8.
09:56 PM on 09/15/2011
Apparently some of the mean girls become modeling agents and others go into human resources - both so they can continue to torture others and control who gets into the club.
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Brenda Starr
Time is before us. Time is after us.
07:50 PM on 09/15/2011
I am the same size I was in high school, when I was a "perfect 8". Now I'm a 0. It makes me feel like I disappeared or something. Size 0 is an insult to ALL women!!
07:34 PM on 09/15/2011
What about the tall lanky girls invading New York who are revered as "it girls"? I can lose weight but can't sprout 5 inches overnight? The copycats perpetuate it also,
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07:11 PM on 09/15/2011
Agencies do set the trend; the trend they have decided to set is "mager" or what we would refer to in english as emaciated. It will only stop when they can no longer sell it.
newshoundmama
My bite's worse than my bark
11:17 PM on 09/15/2011
They'll stop selling it when it's clear we're not buying into it.
06:56 PM on 09/15/2011
I was raised in an era when almost no one was overweight. There were no fast food outlets in my town, and going to a restaurant was a special treat. Everyone in my school looked fine to me; I didn't even think of dieting or losing weight until I was went to apply as a flight attendant at Pan Am. Then, I found out about the height and weight scale, and how arbitrary it is for women. Men were not held to the same standard. This is still true; look at Esquire magazine ads and the male models, and then look at a woman's fashion magazine. We would barf looking at a man that looked the way these female models look, like starving refugees. Not much has changed since Twiggy's advent, and yet former film stars like Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren are still regarded as the ultimate in femininity with all their zaftig. Nothing will change either, until the consumer demands it, and stops buying their magazines. gigi wolf, author of A Woman's Guide To Everything and the Pan Am Airlines Pages on ChezGigi.com-
10:00 PM on 09/15/2011
Well I don't buy the magazines or the makeup or the street walker clothes, but I am definitely in the minority.

You can tell us whether the new TV shom Pan Am is accurate - I read "Coffee tea or me" and always wondered if the author was exaggerating
11:23 AM on 09/16/2011
I read that book too! It may have had an influence on my wanting to be a flight attendant, but more likely it was when I read another book about a single girl who traveled. She just liked to travel, but didn't work for the airlines. Everyone I know is looking forward to the show. I can already see the discrepancies; the pilots were older and not nearly so attractive, and there were male flight attendants, too. And I never even heard a whisper of a rumor about spying for the CIA! However, there are lots of other stories that are true. Flight attendants were a naughty, rowdy bunch, but fortunately, or unfortunately, I didn't take part in any of it. Partly because I was just too tired after a flight- gigi-